Nkhani - Kodi Licorice Extract Glabridin Imagwiradi Ntchito?

I. Chiyambi

Makampani osamalira khungu ayamikira luso la "kuyeretsa khungu" la "Glabridin"(yotengedwa kuchokera ku Glycyrrhiza glabra) pamene ikuposa arbutin wotsogolera kuyera ndi nthawi 1164 zodabwitsa, ndikulandira dzina la "golide woyeretsa"! Koma kodi ndi zodabwitsadi monga momwe zikumvekera? Kodi ikupeza bwanji zotsatira zodabwitsa chonchi?

Pamene nyengo ikusintha ndipo misewu ikukongoletsedwa ndi “miyendo yopanda kanthu ndi manja opanda kanthu,” nkhani yaikulu pakati pa okonda kukongola, kupatulapo chitetezo cha dzuwa, mosakayikira imasanduka kuyera khungu.

Pankhani yosamalira khungu, pali zinthu zambiri zoyeretsera khungu, kuphatikizapo vitamini C, niacinamide, arbutin, hydroquinone, kojic acid, tranexamic acid, glutathione, ferulic acid, phenethylresorcinol (377), ndi zina zambiri. Komabe, chinthu chopangidwa ndi "glabridin" chakopa chidwi cha mafani ambiri, zomwe zapangitsa kuti anthu ambiri afufuze mozama kuti adziwe kutchuka kwake. Tiyeni tifufuze mwatsatanetsatane!

Kudzera mu nkhaniyi, cholinga chathu ndi kukambirana mfundo zazikulu izi:
(1) Kodi Glabridin inachokera kuti? Kodi ikugwirizana bwanji ndi "Glycyrrhiza glabra extract"?
(2) N’chifukwa chiyani "Glabridin" imalemekezedwa ngati "golide woyera"?
(3) Kodi ubwino wa "Glabridin" ndi wotani?
(4) Kodi Glabridin imakwaniritsa bwanji mphamvu zake zoyera?
(5) Kodi licorice ndi yamphamvudi monga momwe akunenera?
(6) Ndi mankhwala ati osamalira khungu omwe ali ndi Glabridin?

Nambala 1 Kuvumbulutsa Chiyambi cha "Glabridin"

Glabridin, yemwe ndi membala wa banja la licorice flavonoid, amachokera ku chomera cha "Glycyrrhiza glabra." M'dziko langa, pali mitundu isanu ndi itatu ikuluikulu ya licorice, ndipo mitundu itatu imaphatikizidwa mu "Pharmacopoeia," yomwe ndi Ural licorice, licorice bulge, ndi licorice glabra. Glycyrrhizin imapezeka mu Glycyrrhiza glabra yokha, yomwe ndi gawo lalikulu la isoflavone pa chomera.

Fomula yopangira glycyrrhizin
Poyamba kampani ya ku Japan ya MARUZEN inapeza glycyrrhiza glabra, ndipo imagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri ngati chowonjezera pa zinthu zosamalira khungu zoyera ku Japan, Korea, ndi mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya zosamalira khungu padziko lonse lapansi. Komabe, ndikofunikira kudziwa kuti chosakaniza chomwe chili m'zinthu zosamalira khungu zomwe timagwiritsa ntchito sichingakhale "glycyrrhizin" koma "Glycyrrhiza extract." Ngakhale kuti "Glycyrrhizin" ndi chinthu chimodzi chokha, "Glycyrrhiza extract" ikhoza kukhala ndi zinthu zina zomwe sizinapatulidwe mokwanira ndikuyeretsedwa, zomwe zitha kukhala njira yotsatsira malonda kuti igogomeze "zachilengedwe" za chinthucho.

Nambala 2 N’chifukwa chiyani licorice imatchedwa “Gold Whitener”?

Glycyrrhizin ndi chinthu chosowa komanso chovuta kuchichotsa. Glycyrrhiza glabra siipezeka mosavuta pochuluka. Kuphatikiza ndi zovuta za njira yochotsera, magalamu osakwana 100 angapezeke kuchokera ku tani imodzi ya tsinde ndi masamba atsopano a licorice. Kusowa kumeneku kumapangitsa kuti ikhale imodzi mwa zinthu zopangira zodula kwambiri pazinthu zosamalira khungu, zofanana ndi golide. Mtengo wa 90% wa zinthu zopangira izi ndi wokwera kufika pa 200,000 yuan/kg.
Ndinadabwa kwambiri, choncho ndinapita ku webusaiti ya Aladdin kuti ndikatsimikizire tsatanetsatane wake. Licorice yoyera bwino (yoyera ≥99%) ikuperekedwa pamtengo wotsatsa wa 780 yuan/20mg, wofanana ndi 39,000 yuan/g.
Mwamsanga, ndinayamba kulemekeza kwambiri chinthu chopanda pakechi. Mphamvu yake yoyera kwambiri yapangitsa kuti chidziwike kuti ndi "golide woyera" kapena "Golden Whitener".

Nambala 3 Kodi Ntchito ya Glabridin ndi Chiyani?

Glabridin ili ndi zinthu zambiri zachilengedwe. Imagwira ntchito ngati chosakaniza chothandiza, chotetezeka, komanso choteteza chilengedwe poyeretsa ndi kuchotsa ma freckle. Kuphatikiza apo, ili ndi mphamvu zotsutsana ndi mabakiteriya, zotsutsana ndi kutupa, zotsutsana ndi ma antioxidants, zotsutsana ndi ukalamba, komanso zotsutsana ndi ultraviolet. Mphamvu yake yabwino kwambiri pakuyeretsa, kuunikira, ndi kuchotsa ma freckle imathandizidwa ndi deta yoyesera, yomwe ikuwonetsa kuti mphamvu ya Glabridin yoyeretsa imaposa ya vitamini C nthawi zoposa 230, hydroquinone nthawi 16, komanso arbutin yodziwika bwino yoyeretsa ndi nthawi 1164.

Nambala 4 Kodi njira yoyeretsera ya glabridin ndi yotani?

Khungu likakumana ndi kuwala kwa ultraviolet, zomwe zimayambitsa kupanga ma free radicals, ma melanocyte amalimbikitsidwa kupanga tyrosinase. Mothandizidwa ndi enzyme iyi, tyrosine pakhungu imapanga melanin, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti khungu lizida pamene melanin imatengedwa kuchokera ku basal layer kupita ku stratum corneum.
Mfundo yaikulu ya chinthu chilichonse choyeretsera ndi kulowerera mu njira yopangira kapena kunyamula melanin. Njira yoyeretsera ya Glabridin makamaka imaphatikizapo zinthu zitatu izi:
(1) Kuletsa ntchito ya tyrosinase
Glabridin imasonyeza mphamvu yoletsa ntchito ya tyrosinase, zomwe zimabweretsa zotsatira zomveka bwino komanso zofunika. Kuyerekezera kwa makompyuta kumasonyeza kuti glabridin imatha kumangirira mwamphamvu pakati pa tyrosinase kudzera mu ma hydrogen bonds, zomwe zimalepheretsa kulowa kwa zinthu zopangira melanin (tyrosine), motero zimalepheretsa kupanga melanin. Njira imeneyi, yomwe imadziwika kuti competitive inhibition, ikufanana ndi chikondi cholimba mtima.

(2) Kuletsa kupanga mitundu ya okosijeni yogwira ntchito (antioxidant)
Kukhudzidwa ndi kuwala kwa ultraviolet kumayambitsa kupanga mitundu ya okosijeni yogwira ntchito (free radicals), yomwe ingawononge nembanemba ya phospholipid ya khungu, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti khungu lizioneka lofiira komanso lofiirira. Chifukwa chake, mitundu ya okosijeni yogwira ntchito imadziwika kuti imathandizira kukulitsa mtundu wa khungu, zomwe zikuwonetsa kufunika koteteza ku dzuwa posamalira khungu. Kafukufuku woyeserera wasonyeza kuti glabridin ili ndi mphamvu zofanana ndi superoxide dismutase (SOD), yomwe imagwira ntchito ngati antioxidant. Izi zimathandiza kuchepetsa zinthu zomwe zimapangitsa kuti ntchito ya tyrosinase ichuluke.

(3) Kuletsa kutupa
Pambuyo pa kuwonongeka kwa khungu chifukwa cha kuwala kwa ultraviolet, kuoneka kwa erythema ndi utoto kumayenderana ndi kutupa, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti melanin ipangidwe kwambiri komanso kupititsa patsogolo kayendedwe koipa. Mphamvu za Glabridin zotsutsana ndi kutupa zimapangitsa kuti pakhale malo abwino oletsa kupanga melanin pamlingo winawake, komanso zimathandiza kukonzanso khungu lowonongeka.

Ayi. 5 Kodi Glabridin Ndi Wamphamvudi?

Glabridin yatamandidwa ngati chinthu chothandiza komanso choteteza chilengedwe poyeretsa ndi kuchotsa madontho a khungu, ndipo ili ndi njira yodziwika bwino yoyeretsa komanso yogwira mtima kwambiri. Deta yoyesera imasonyeza kuti mphamvu yake yoyeretsa imaposa ya arbutin ya "kuyeretsa kwakukulu" nthawi zoposa chikwi (monga momwe zanenedwera mu deta yoyesera).
Ofufuza adachita chitsanzo choyesera cha nyama pogwiritsa ntchito zebrafish kuti awone momwe glabridin imalepheretsa melanin, zomwe zidawonetsa kufananiza kwakukulu ndi kojic acid ndi bearberry.
Kuwonjezera pa zoyeserera za nyama, zotsatira zachipatala zikuwonetsanso mphamvu yabwino kwambiri ya glabridin yoyeretsa khungu, ndipo zotsatira zake zimaonekera mkati mwa masabata 4-8.
Ngakhale kuti kugwiritsa ntchito bwino kwa chinthu choyeretsera khunguchi n’koonekeratu, koma kugwiritsa ntchito kwake sikuli kofala kwambiri monga momwe zinthu zina zoyeretsera khungu zimagwiritsidwira ntchito. M’malingaliro mwanga, chifukwa chachikulu chili mu “ulemu wake wagolide” m’makampani—ndi wokwera mtengo! Komabe, chifukwa chogwiritsa ntchito zinthu zodziwika bwino zosamalira khungu, pali chizolowezi chowonjezeka cha anthu ofuna zinthu zomwe zili ndi chinthu “chagolide”chi.

Nambala 6 Ndi Zinthu Ziti Zosamalira Khungu Zomwe Zili ndi Glabridin?

Chodzikanira: Mndandanda wotsatirawu ndi wochepa, osati wolimbikitsa!
Glabridin ndi chinthu champhamvu chosamalira khungu chomwe chimadziwika ndi mphamvu zake zowunikira khungu. Chimapezeka m'zinthu zosiyanasiyana zosamalira khungu, kuphatikizapo seramu, ma essence, mafuta odzola, ndi masks. Komabe, ndikofunikira kudziwa kuti kupezeka kwa Glabridin muzinthu zosamalira khungu kumatha kusiyana, ndipo ndibwino kuyang'ana mosamala mndandanda wazinthu zomwe zili muzinthu zinazake kuti mudziwe momwe zilili.
(1) Mafuta Odzola a Aleble Licorice Queen
Mndandanda wa zosakaniza uli ndi "Glycyrrhiza glabra" monga chosakaniza chachiwiri (pambuyo pa madzi), pamodzi ndi glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, squalane, ceramide, ndi zinthu zina zonyowetsa khungu.
(2) Kukonza Zodzoladzola za Ana Zopepuka za Zipatso za Licorice Madzi a Essence
Zosakaniza zofunika kwambiri ndi Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, hydrolyzed algae extract, arbutin, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, ndi zina zambiri.
(3) Kokoskin Snow Clock Essence Body Serum
Ili ndi 5% nicotinamide, 377, ndi glabridin ngati zigawo zake zazikulu.
(4) Chigoba cha nkhope cha Licorice (Mitundu Yosiyanasiyana)
Gulu la zinthu zimenezi limasiyana, ndipo zina zimakhala ndi zochepa ndipo zimagulitsidwa ngati "glabragan" ya zitsamba.
(5) Guyu Licorice Series

Nambala 7 Kuzunzidwa kwa Miyoyo

(1) Kodi Glabridin yomwe ili mu zinthu zosamalira khungu imachokeradi ku licorice?
Funso loti ngati Glabridin mu zinthu zosamalira khungu imachotsedwadi ku licorice ndi lovomerezeka. Kapangidwe ka mankhwala a licorice extract, makamaka glabridin, ndi kosiyana, ndipo njira yochotsera ikhoza kukhala yokwera mtengo. Izi zikubweretsa funso loti ngati kungakhale kothandiza kwambiri kuganizira za kupanga mankhwala ngati njira ina yopezera glabridin. Ngakhale kuti mankhwala ena, monga artemisinin, angapezeke kudzera mu kupanga kwathunthu, ndizotheka kupanga glabridin. Komabe, mtengo wa kupanga mankhwala poyerekeza ndi kuchotsa uyenera kuganiziridwanso. Kuphatikiza apo, pakhoza kukhala nkhawa za kugwiritsa ntchito mwadala chizindikiro cha "Glycyrrhiza glabra extract" pamndandanda wazinthu zosamalira khungu kuti apange kukopa kwachilengedwe kwa zosakaniza. Ndikofunikira kufufuza chiyambi ndi njira zopangira zosakaniza zosamalira khungu kuti zitsimikizire kuwonekera bwino komanso kutsimikizika.

(2) Kodi ndingagwiritse ntchito licorice yoyera kwambiri pankhope panga kuti ndikhale ndi khungu loyera ngati chipale chofewa?
Yankho lake ndi ayi ndithu! Ngakhale kuti glabridin ndi yoyera, koma mphamvu zake zimalepheretsa kugwiritsidwa ntchito mwachindunji. Glycyrrhizin siisungunuka m'madzi, ndipo mphamvu yake yolowera pakhungu ndi yofooka. Kuigwiritsa ntchito mu zinthu zosamalira khungu kumafuna njira zokonzekera bwino komanso zokonzekera. Popanda kupanga bwino, zingakhale zovuta kukwaniritsa zomwe mukufuna. Komabe, kafukufuku wa sayansi wapangitsa kuti pakhale mankhwala opangira mafuta m'thupi monga liposomes, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti glabridin iyambe kuyamwa ndi kugwiritsa ntchito glabridin pakhungu.

maumboni:
[1] Kukhala ndi mtundu: dyschromia[M]. Thierry Passeron ndi Jean-Paul Ortonne, 2010.
[2] J. Chen et al. / Spectrochimica Acta Gawo A: Molecular and Biomolecular Spectroscopy 168 (2016) 111–117