Nkhani - Kodi Licorice Extract Glabridin Imagwiradi Ntchito?

I. Chiyambi

Makampani osamalira khungu ayamikira luso loyera la "Glabridin" (yotengedwa kuchokera ku Glycyrrhiza glabra) pamene imaposa mtsogoleri woyera arbutin ndi nthawi 1164, ndikulandira dzina la "kuyeretsa golidi"! Koma kodi ndi zodabwitsa monga momwe zikumvekera?

Pamene nyengo ikusintha ndipo misewu imakongoletsedwa ndi “miyendo yopanda kanthu ndi manja opanda kanthu,” nkhani imene anthu okonda kukongola amakambitsirana, kuwonjezera pa kutetezedwa ndi dzuwa, imasanduka kuyera khungu.

Pamalo osamalira khungu, pali zinthu zambiri zoyera zoyera, kuphatikiza vitamini C, niacinamide, arbutin, hydroquinone, kojic acid, tranexamic acid, glutathione, ferulic acid, phenethylresorcinol (377), ndi zina zambiri. Komabe, chophatikizira cha "glabridin" chakopa chidwi cha mafani ambiri, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti afufuze mozama kuti adziwe kutchuka kwake komwe kukukula. Tiyeni tifufuze mwatsatanetsatane!

Kudzera m'nkhaniyi, tikufuna kuthana ndi mfundo zazikuluzikulu izi:
(1) Kodi Glabridin adachokera kuti? Kodi zikugwirizana bwanji ndi "Glycyrrhiza glabra extract"?
(2) Kodi nchifukwa ninji mawu akuti “Glabridin” amalemekezedwa monga “woyera golide”?
(3) Kodi ubwino wa "Glabridin" ndi chiyani?
(4) Kodi Glabridin amakwaniritsa bwanji kuyera kwake?
(5) Kodi licorice ndi wamphamvu monga momwe amanenera?
(6) Ndi mankhwala ati osamalira khungu omwe ali ndiGlabridin?

No.1 Kuvumbulutsa Chiyambi cha "Glabridin"

Glabridin, membala wa banja la licorice flavonoid, amachokera ku chomera "Glycyrrhiza glabra". M'dziko langa, pali mitundu isanu ndi itatu ya licorice, yokhala ndi mitundu itatu yophatikizidwa mu "Pharmacopoeia," yomwe ndi Ural licorice, licorice bulge, ndi licorice glabra. Glycyrrhizin imapezeka mu Glycyrrhiza glabra yokha, yomwe imakhala ngati gawo lalikulu la isoflavone pamitengo.

Mapangidwe a glycyrrhizin
Poyambirira adapezeka ndi kampani yaku Japan ya MARUZEN ndikuchotsedwa ku Glycyrrhiza glabra, glycyrrhizin imagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri ngati chowonjezera pakupanga zoyera pakhungu ku Japan, Korea, ndi mitundu ingapo yapadziko lonse yosamalira khungu. Komabe, ndikofunikira kudziwa kuti zomwe zalembedwa muzovala zosamalira khungu zomwe timagwiritsa ntchito sizingakhale "glycyrrhizin" koma "Glycyrrhiza extract." Ngakhale kuti "Glycyrrhizin" ndi chinthu chimodzi, "Glycyrrhiza extract" ikhoza kuphatikizapo zigawo zina zomwe sizinapatulidwe komanso kuyeretsedwa, zomwe zingakhale ngati njira yotsatsira pofuna kutsindika za "chilengedwe" cha mankhwala.

No.2 Chifukwa chiyani licorice amatchedwa "Gold Whitener"?

Glycyrrhizin ndi chinthu chosowa komanso chovuta kuchotsa. Glycyrrhiza glabra sapezeka mosavuta mochuluka. Kuphatikizana ndi zovuta za ndondomeko yochotsa, zosakwana magalamu 100 angapezeke kuchokera ku tani imodzi ya zitsamba zatsopano za licorice ndi masamba. Kuperewera kumeneku kumayendetsa mtengo wake, ndikupangitsa kuti ikhale imodzi mwazinthu zodula kwambiri pazogulitsa zosamalira khungu, zofananira ndi golide. Mtengo wa 90% zopangira zopangira izi zimakwera mpaka 200,000 yuan/kg.
Ndinadabwa kwambiri, choncho ndinayendera tsamba la Aladdin kuti nditsimikizire zambiri. Licorice yoyera (yoyera ≥99%) ikuperekedwa pamtengo wotsatsa wa 780 yuan/20mg, wofanana ndi 39,000 yuan/g.
M'kanthawi kochepa, ndinapeza ulemu watsopano pa chinthu chopanda pake chimenechi. Kuyera kwake kosayerekezeka kwapangitsa kuti ikhale dzina la "golide woyera" kapena "Golden Whitener".

No.3 Kodi Ntchito ya Glabridin ndi Chiyani?

Glabridin ili ndi zinthu zambiri zachilengedwe. Imagwira ntchito ngati chinthu chothandiza, chotetezeka, komanso chogwirizana ndi chilengedwe poyeretsa komanso kuchotsa mawanga. Kuphatikiza apo, ili ndi antibacterial, anti-yotupa, antioxidant, anti-aging, ndi anti-ultraviolet zotsatira. Kuchita kwake kwapadera pakuyeretsa, kuwunikira, ndi kuchotsa madontho kumathandizidwa ndi kafukufuku woyesera, zomwe zimasonyeza kuti kuyera kwa Glabridin kumaposa nthawi za 230, hydroquinone ndi nthawi 16, ndi arbutin wodziwika bwino wa whitening arbutin ndi 1164 modabwitsa 1164. nthawi.

No.4 Kodi njira yoyera ya glabridin ndi yotani?

Khungu likakhala ndi kuwala kwa ultraviolet, zomwe zimayambitsa kupanga ma free radicals, ma melanocyte amalimbikitsidwa kuti apange tyrosinase. Mothandizidwa ndi puloteni iyi, tyrosine pakhungu imatulutsa melanin, zomwe zimapangitsa khungu kukhala mdima pamene melanin imatengedwa kuchokera ku basal layer kupita ku stratum corneum.
Mfundo yofunikira ya chinthu chilichonse choyera ndi kulowererapo pakupanga melanin kapena kuyenda. Njira yoyera ya Glabridin imaphatikizapo zinthu zitatu izi:
(1) Kuletsa ntchito ya tyrosinase
Glabridin ikuwonetsa mphamvu yolepheretsa ntchito ya tyrosinase, ikupereka zotsatira zomveka komanso zofunikira. Zoyerekeza zamakompyuta zimawulula kuti glabridin imatha kumangirira pakati pa tyrosinase kudzera pa ma hydrogen bond, ndikutsekereza kulowa kwazinthu zopangira melanin (tyrosine), potero zimalepheretsa kupanga melanin. Njira imeneyi, yomwe imadziwika kuti kuletsa mpikisano, ikufanana ndi kusonyeza chikondi molimba mtima.

(2) Kupondereza kubadwa kwa mitundu ya okosijeni (antioxidant)
Kuwonetsedwa ndi kuwala kwa ultraviolet kumapangitsa kuti pakhale mitundu ya okosijeni (yomwe imatha kuwononga khungu la phospholipid), zomwe zimapangitsa erythema ndi mtundu wa pigmentation. Chifukwa chake, mitundu ya okosijeni yokhazikika imadziwika kuti imathandizira kuti khungu likhale lamtundu, zomwe zikuwonetsa kufunikira kwa chitetezo cha dzuwa pakusamalira khungu. Kafukufuku woyeserera awonetsa kuti glabridin imawonetsa mphamvu zofananira zaufulu zaufulu ku superoxide dismutase (SOD), imagwira ntchito ngati antioxidant. Izi zimathandizira kuchepetsa zomwe zimapangitsa kuti ntchito ya tyrosinase ichuluke.

(3) Kuletsa kutupa
Pambuyo pakuwonongeka kwa khungu kuchokera ku kuwala kwa ultraviolet, maonekedwe a erythema ndi mtundu wa pigmentation amatsagana ndi kutupa, kukulitsa kupanga melanin ndikupititsa patsogolo kuzungulira kowononga. Glabridin's anti-inflammatory properties imapanga malo abwino oletsa kupanga melanin mpaka kufika pamlingo wina, komanso kulimbikitsa kukonzanso khungu lowonongeka.

Na. 5 Kodi Glabridin Ndiwodalirikadi?

Glabridin adayamikiridwa ngati chinthu chothandiza komanso chogwirizana ndi chilengedwe pakuyeretsa ndi kuchotsa mawanga, kudzitamandira ndi njira yodziwika bwino yoyera komanso yothandiza kwambiri. Zambiri zoyeserera zikuwonetsa kuti kuyera kwake kumaposa "chimphona choyera" cha arbutin kupitilira chikwi (monga momwe zafotokozedwera muzoyeserera).
Ofufuza adachita chitsanzo choyesera nyama pogwiritsa ntchito zebrafish kuti awone momwe glabridin imalepheretsa melanin, ndikuwulula kufananiza kwakukulu ndi kojic acid ndi bearberry.
Kuphatikiza pa kuyesa kwa nyama, zotsatira zachipatala zimawonetsanso kuyera kwa glabridin, ndi zotsatira zowoneka bwino mkati mwa masabata a 4-8.
Ngakhale kuti mphamvu ya chinthu choyera ichi ikuwonekera, kagwiritsidwe ntchito kake sikunafalikire monga zopangira zina zoyera. M'malingaliro anga, chifukwa chachikulu chagona mu "golide" wake mumakampani - ndi okwera mtengo! Komabe, kutsatira kugwiritsa ntchito zinthu zodziwika bwino zosamalira khungu, pali chiwopsezo chomwe chikukula cha anthu omwe akufunafuna zinthu zomwe zili ndi "golide" uyu.

No.6 Ndi Zida Ziti Zosamalira Khungu Lili ndi Glabridin?

Chodzikanira: Zotsatirazi ndi mndandanda, osati malingaliro!
Glabridin ndi chinthu champhamvu chosamalira khungu chomwe chimadziwika ndi mawonekedwe ake owala pakhungu. Itha kupezeka muzinthu zosiyanasiyana zosamalira khungu, kuphatikiza ma seramu, ma essence, mafuta odzola, ndi masks. Zina mwazinthu zenizeni zomwe zingakhale ndi Glabridin, komabe, ndikofunikira kuzindikira kuti kukhalapo kwa Glabridin muzinthu zosamalira khungu kungasiyane, ndipo ndikofunikira kuti muwunikenso mosamala mindandanda yazinthu zomwe zimadziwika kuti ziphatikizidwe.
(1) Aleble Licorice Queen Body Lotion
Mndandanda wazinthuzo umakhala ndi "Glycyrrhiza glabra" monga chinthu chachiwiri (madzi otsatirawa), pamodzi ndi glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, squalane, ceramide, ndi zigawo zina zonyowa.
(2) Zodzoladzola Ana Kuwala Zipatso Licorice Kukonza Essence Madzi
Zosakaniza zazikuluzikulu zikuphatikiza Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, hydrolyzed algae extract, arbutin, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, Scutellaria baikalensis root extract, ndi zina.
(3) Kokoskin Snow Clock Essence Body Serum
Yokhala ndi 5% nicotinamide, 377, ndi glabridin monga zigawo zake zazikulu.
(4) Licorice Facial Mask (Zosiyanasiyana)
Gulu lazinthu izi zimasiyanasiyana, ndipo zina zimakhala ndi zochepa ndipo zimagulitsidwa ngati "glabragan".
(5) Guyu Licorice Series

No.7 Kuzunzidwa kwa Moyo

(1) Kodi Glabridin mu zinthu zosamalira khungu amachotsedwadi ku licorice?
Funso loti Glabridin muzinthu zosamalira khungu amachotsedwadi ku licorice ndi lolondola. Kapangidwe kake ka licorice extract, makamaka glabridin, ndi yosiyana, ndipo njira yochotsera imatha kukhala yokwera mtengo. Izi zimadzutsa funso ngati zingakhale zothandiza kuganizira kaphatikizidwe ka mankhwala ngati njira ina yopezera glabridin. Ngakhale mankhwala ena, monga artemisinin, angapezeke kupyolera mu kaphatikizidwe kokwanira, ndizotheka kupanga glabridin komanso. Komabe, mtengo wa kaphatikizidwe wamankhwala poyerekeza ndi kutulutsa uyenera kuganiziridwa. Kuphatikiza apo, pakhoza kukhala zodetsa nkhawa za kugwiritsa ntchito mwadala lebulo la "Glycyrrhiza glabra Extract" pamndandanda wazogulitsa za skincare kuti apange chidwi chotsatsa zachilengedwe. Ndikofunikira kuwunika momwe zimayambira komanso njira zopangira zinthu zosamalira khungu kuti zitsimikizire kuti zikuwonekera komanso zowona.

(2) Kodi ndingagwiritse ntchito licorice yoyera kwambiri pankhope yanga kuti ikhale yoyera ngati chipale chofewa?
Yankho lake n’lakuti ayi! Ngakhale kuyera kwa glabridin ndi koyamikirika, katundu wake amachepetsa kugwiritsa ntchito kwake mwachindunji. Glycyrrhizin pafupifupi osasungunuka m'madzi, ndipo mphamvu yake yolowera pakhungu ndi yofooka. Kuziphatikiza m'zinthu zosamalira khungu kumafunikira kupanga ndikukonzekera mozama. Popanda kupangidwa bwino, zingakhale zovuta kukwaniritsa zomwe mukufuna. Komabe, kafukufuku wa sayansi wapangitsa kuti pakhale zokonzekera zam'mutu monga liposomes, kupititsa patsogolo kuyamwa ndi kugwiritsa ntchito glabridin kudzera pakhungu.

maumboni:
[1] Kukhala ndi mtundu: dyschromia[M]. Thierry Passeron ndi Jean-Paul Ortonne, 2010.
[2] J. Chen et al. / Spectrochimica Acta Gawo A: Molecular ndi Biomolecular Spectroscopy 168 (2016) 111-117