Pamene khungu likukalamba, ntchito ya thupi imachepa. Kusintha kumeneku kumachitika chifukwa cha zinthu zamkati (za nthawi) komanso zakunja (zomwe zimayambitsidwa ndi UV). Zomera zimapereka maubwino othana ndi zizindikiro zina za ukalamba. Pano, tikuwunikanso zomera zina ndi umboni wa sayansi womwe ulipo chifukwa cha zomwe zimanena kuti sizikukalamba. Zomera zitha kupereka zotsutsana ndi kutupa, zotsutsana ndi ma antioxidants, zonyowetsa, zoteteza ku UV, ndi zotsatira zina. Zomera zambiri zalembedwa ngati zosakaniza mu zodzoladzola zodziwika bwino komanso zodzoladzola, koma zochepa zokha ndizo zomwe zafotokozedwa pano. Izi zidasankhidwa kutengera kupezeka kwa deta yasayansi, chidwi cha olemba, komanso "kutchuka" kwa zodzoladzola ndi zodzoladzola zomwe zilipo masiku ano. Zomera zomwe zawunikidwa pano zikuphatikizapo mafuta a argan, mafuta a kokonati, crocin, feverfew, tiyi wobiriwira, marigold, pomegranate, ndi soya.
Mawu Ofunika: zomera; woletsa ukalamba; mafuta a argan; mafuta a kokonati; crocin; feverfew; tiyi wobiriwira; marigold; makangaza; soya
3.1. Mafuta a Argan
3.1.1. Mbiri, Kagwiritsidwe Ntchito, ndi Zonena
Mafuta a Argan amapezeka ku Morocco ndipo amapangidwa kuchokera ku mbewu za Argania sponosa L. Amagwiritsidwa ntchito m'njira zambiri monga kuphika, kuchiza matenda a pakhungu, komanso kusamalira khungu ndi tsitsi.
3.1.2. Kapangidwe ndi Njira Yogwirira Ntchito
Mafuta a Argan amapangidwa ndi 80% ya mafuta osaturated ndi 20% ya mafuta okhuta ndipo ali ndi ma polyphenols, tocopherols, sterols, squalene, ndi triterpene alcohol.
3.1.3. Umboni wa Sayansi
Mafuta a Argan akhala akugwiritsidwa ntchito ku Morocco nthawi zambiri kuti achepetse utoto wa nkhope, koma maziko asayansi a izi sanamvetsetsedwe kale. Mu kafukufuku wa mbewa, mafuta a Argan adaletsa kuwonetsa kwa tyrosinase ndi dopachrome tautomerase m'maselo a B16 murine melanoma, zomwe zidapangitsa kuti kuchuluka kwa melanin kuchepe chifukwa cha mlingo. Izi zikusonyeza kuti mafuta a Argan akhoza kukhala choletsa champhamvu cha kupanga melanin, koma mayeso owongolera mwachisawawa (RTC) mwa anthu amafunika kuti atsimikizire lingaliro ili.
Gulu laling'ono la amayi 60 omwe adasiya kusamba linanena kuti kugwiritsa ntchito mafuta a argan tsiku lililonse ndi/kapena kugwiritsa ntchito pamwamba pa khungu kumachepetsa kutaya madzi kwa transepidermal (TEWL), kukulitsa kulimba kwa khungu, kutengera kuwonjezeka kwa R2 (kulimba kwa khungu), R5 (kulimba kwa khungu), ndi R7 (kulimba kwachilengedwe) komanso kuchepa kwa nthawi yothamanga (RRT) (muyeso wokhudzana ndi kulimba kwa khungu). Maguluwa adasankhidwa mwachisawawa kuti adye mafuta a azitona kapena mafuta a argan. Magulu onsewa adagwiritsa ntchito mafuta a argan ku dzanja lamanzere la volar lokha. Muyeso unatengedwa kuchokera kumanja akumanja ndi akumanzere a volar. Kusintha kwa kulimba kunawoneka m'magulu onse awiri pa dzanja pomwe mafuta a argan ankagwiritsidwa ntchito pamwamba, koma pa dzanja pomwe mafuta a argan sanagwiritsidwe ntchito kokha gulu lomwe linkagwiritsa ntchito mafuta a argan linali ndi kulimba kwakukulu [31]. Izi zidachitika chifukwa cha kuchuluka kwa ma antioxidants mu mafuta a argan poyerekeza ndi mafuta a azitona. Akuganiza kuti izi zitha kukhala chifukwa cha kuchuluka kwa Vitamini E ndi ferulic acid, zomwe ndi ma antioxidants odziwika.
3.2. Mafuta a Kokonati
3.2.1. Mbiri, Kagwiritsidwe Ntchito, ndi Zonena
Mafuta a kokonati amachokera ku zipatso zouma za Cocos nucifera ndipo amagwiritsidwa ntchito m'njira zambiri, zakale komanso zamakono. Amagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati chofukizira fungo, khungu, komanso chowongolera tsitsi, komanso m'zodzoladzola zambiri. Ngakhale mafuta a kokonati ali ndi zinthu zambiri zochokera ku mafutawa, kuphatikizapo kokonati acid, kokonati acid yopangidwa ndi hydrogenated, ndi kokonati mafuta yopangidwa ndi hydrogenated, tikambirana zomwe kafukufuku amanena zokhudzana ndi mafuta a kokonati (VCO), omwe amapangidwa popanda kutentha.
Mafuta a kokonati akhala akugwiritsidwa ntchito ponyowetsa khungu la makanda ndipo angakhale othandiza pochiza matenda a atopic dermatitis chifukwa cha mphamvu zake zonyowetsa komanso zotsatira zake pa Staphylococcus aureus ndi majeremusi ena a pakhungu mwa odwala omwe ali ndi atopic dermatitis. Mafuta a kokonati awonetsedwa kuti amachepetsa kulowa kwa S. aureus pakhungu la akuluakulu omwe ali ndi atopic dermatitis mu RTC yobisika kawiri.
3.2.2. Kapangidwe ndi Njira Yogwirira Ntchito
Mafuta a kokonati amapangidwa ndi 90–95% ya triglycerides yokhuta (lauric acid, myristic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, ndi palmitic acid). Izi n'zosiyana ndi mafuta ambiri a masamba/zipatso, omwe nthawi zambiri amakhala ndi mafuta osakhuta. Mafuta a triglycerides okhuta omwe amapakidwa pamwamba amagwira ntchito yonyowetsa khungu ngati chonyowetsa mwa kupyapyala m'mphepete mwa corneocytes zouma ndikudzaza mipata pakati pawo.
3.2.3. Umboni wa Sayansi
Mafuta a kokonati amatha kunyowetsa khungu louma lomwe limakalamba. Ma asidi amafuta 62 pa 100 aliwonse mu VCO ndi ofanana kutalika ndipo 92% ndi okhuta, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti pakhale kulongedza kolimba komwe kumabweretsa zotsatira zobisika kwambiri kuposa mafuta a azitona. Ma triglycerides omwe ali mu mafuta a kokonati amagawidwa ndi lipases mu zomera zapakhungu zomwe zimakhala glycerin ndi mafuta acid. Glycerin ndi humectant yamphamvu, yomwe imakoka madzi kupita ku cornea la epidermis kuchokera ku chilengedwe chakunja ndi zigawo zakuya za khungu. Mafuta a asidi mu VCO ali ndi asidi ochepa a linoleic, zomwe ndizofunikira chifukwa linoleic acid imatha kukwiyitsa khungu. Mafuta a kokonati ndi abwino kuposa mafuta amchere pochepetsa TEWL mwa odwala omwe ali ndi atopic dermatitis ndipo ndi othandiza komanso otetezeka monga mafuta amchere pochiza xerosis.
Asidi ya Lauric, yomwe imayambitsa monolaurin komanso gawo lofunika la VCO, ikhoza kukhala ndi mphamvu zotsutsana ndi kutupa, imatha kusintha kuchulukana kwa maselo a chitetezo chamthupi komanso kuyambitsa zotsatira zina za VCO. VCO ili ndi asidi wambiri wa ferulic ndi p-coumaric acid (zonse ziwiri za phenolic acid), ndipo kuchuluka kwa ma phenolic acid amenewa kumalumikizidwa ndi mphamvu yowonjezera ya antioxidant. Ma phenolic acid ndi othandiza polimbana ndi kuwonongeka komwe kumachitika chifukwa cha UV. Komabe, ngakhale kuti amanena kuti mafuta a kokonati amatha kugwira ntchito ngati choteteza ku dzuwa, kafukufuku wa in vitro akusonyeza kuti sapereka mphamvu zambiri zoletsa UV.
Kuwonjezera pa mphamvu zake zonyowetsa komanso zoteteza ku ma antioxidants, zitsanzo za nyama zikusonyeza kuti VCO ingachepetse nthawi yochira mabala. Panali kuchuluka kwa pepsin-soluble collagen (higher collagen cross-linking) m'mabala omwe amachiritsidwa ndi VCO poyerekeza ndi zowongolera. Histopathology inasonyeza kuwonjezeka kwa kuchuluka kwa fibroblast ndi neovascularization m'mabala awa. Maphunziro ambiri akufunika kuti awone ngati kugwiritsa ntchito VCO pamwamba pa khungu kungawonjezere kuchuluka kwa collagen pakhungu la munthu wokalamba.
3.3. Crocin
3.3.1. Mbiri, Kagwiritsidwe Ntchito, Zonena
Crocin ndi gawo la saffron lomwe limagwira ntchito mwachilengedwe, lochokera ku Crocus sativus L. Saffron imalimidwa m'maiko ambiri kuphatikiza Iran, India, ndi Greece, ndipo yagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati mankhwala achikhalidwe pochepetsa matenda osiyanasiyana kuphatikizapo kuvutika maganizo, kutupa, matenda a chiwindi, ndi zina zambiri.
3.3.2. Kapangidwe ndi Njira Yogwirira Ntchito
Crocin ndiye amachititsa mtundu wa safironi. Crocin imapezekanso mu chipatso cha Gardenia jasminoides Ellis. Imagawidwa ngati carotenoid glycoside.
3.3.3. Umboni wa Sayansi
Crocin ili ndi mphamvu zotsutsana ndi ma antioxidants, imateteza squalene ku peroxidation yoyambitsidwa ndi UV, komanso imaletsa kutulutsidwa kwa zoyambitsa kutupa. Mphamvu yolimbana ndi ma antioxidants yawonetsedwa mu mayeso a in vitro omwe adawonetsa mphamvu yabwino kwambiri yolimbana ndi ma antioxidants poyerekeza ndi Vitamini C. Kuphatikiza apo, crocin imaletsa peroxidation ya membrane ya maselo yomwe imachokera ku UVA ndipo imaletsa kuwonetsedwa kwa zoyambitsa kutupa zambiri kuphatikizapo IL-8, PGE-2, IL-6, TNF-α, IL-1α, ndi LTB4. Imachepetsanso kuwonetsedwa kwa majini ambiri omwe amadalira NF-κB. Mu kafukufuku wogwiritsa ntchito ma fibroblast a anthu olimidwa, crocin idachepetsa ROS yomwe imachokera ku UV, idalimbikitsa kuwonetsedwa kwa puloteni ya extracellular matrix Col-1, ndikuchepetsa kuchuluka kwa maselo omwe ali ndi mawonekedwe a senescent pambuyo pa kuwala kwa UV. Imachepetsa kupanga kwa ROS ndikuchepetsa apoptosis. Crocin idawonetsedwa kuti ikuletsa njira zolumikizirana za ERK/MAPK/NF-κB/STAT m'maselo a HaCaT in vitro. Ngakhale crocin ili ndi kuthekera kokhala ngati anti-aging cosmeceutical, chophatikizacho ndi chosavuta. Kugwiritsa ntchito mafuta opangidwa ndi nanostructured lipid dispersions popereka mankhwala ophera tizilombo kwafufuzidwa ndipo zotsatira zake zinali zabwino. Kuti mudziwe zotsatira za crocin m'thupi, mitundu yowonjezera ya nyama ndi mayesero azachipatala osankhidwa mwachisawawa amafunika.
3.4. Chimfine
3.4.1. Mbiri, Kagwiritsidwe Ntchito, Zonena
Feverfew, Tanacetum parthenium, ndi chomera chosatha chomwe chagwiritsidwa ntchito m'njira zosiyanasiyana mu mankhwala achikhalidwe.
3.4.2. Kapangidwe ndi Njira Yogwirira Ntchito
Feverfew ili ndi parthenolide, sesquiterpene lactone, yomwe ingayambitse zina mwa zotsatira zake zotsutsana ndi kutupa, kudzera mu kuletsa NF-κB. Kuletsa kumeneku kwa NF-κB kumawoneka kuti sikudalira mphamvu ya parthenolide yolimbana ndi antioxidant. Parthenolide yawonetsanso mphamvu zotsutsana ndi khansa motsutsana ndi khansa ya pakhungu yoyambitsidwa ndi UVB komanso motsutsana ndi maselo a melanoma mu vitro. Tsoka ilo, parthenolide ingayambitsenso ziwengo, matuza pakamwa, komanso dermatitis yokhudzana ndi ziwengo. Chifukwa cha nkhawa izi, nthawi zambiri imachotsedwa feverfew isanawonjezedwe ku zinthu zodzikongoletsera.
3.4.3. Umboni wa Sayansi
Chifukwa cha zovuta zomwe zingachitike chifukwa chogwiritsa ntchito parthenolide pakhungu, zinthu zina zodzikongoletsera zomwe zili ndi feverfew zimagwiritsa ntchito parthenolide-depleted feverfew (PD-feverfew), yomwe imati ilibe mphamvu yodziwira. PD-feverfew imatha kuwonjezera ntchito yokonzanso DNA pakhungu, zomwe zingachepetse kuwonongeka kwa DNA komwe kumachitika chifukwa cha UV. Mu kafukufuku wa in vitro, PD-feverfew idachepetsa kupangika kwa hydrogen peroxide yomwe imachitika chifukwa cha UV ndikuchepetsa kutulutsa kwa cytokine komwe kumayambitsa kutupa. Idawonetsa mphamvu yamphamvu yotsutsana ndi antioxidant kuposa choyerekeza, Vitamini C, komanso kuchepa kwa erythema yomwe imachitika chifukwa cha UV mu RTC ya anthu 12.
3.5. Tiyi Wobiriwira
3.5.1. Mbiri, Kagwiritsidwe Ntchito, Zonena
Tiyi wobiriwira wakhala akugwiritsidwa ntchito ku China chifukwa cha ubwino wake pa thanzi kwa zaka mazana ambiri. Chifukwa cha mphamvu zake zotsutsana ndi ma antioxidants, pali chidwi chofuna kupanga mankhwala okhazikika komanso opezeka pakhungu.
3.5.2. Kapangidwe ndi Njira Yogwirira Ntchito
Tiyi wobiriwira, wochokera ku Camellia sinensis, uli ndi mankhwala ambiri olimbikitsa ukalamba omwe angathe kuletsa ukalamba, kuphatikizapo caffeine, mavitamini, ndi ma polyphenols. Ma polyphenols akuluakulu mu tiyi wobiriwira ndi ma catechins, makamaka gallocatechin, epigallocatechin (ECG), ndi epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). Epigallocatechin-3-gallate ili ndi antioxidant, photoprotective, immunomodulatory, anti-angiogenic, komanso anti-inflammatory properties. Tiyi wobiriwira ulinso ndi flavonol glycoside kaempferol yambiri, yomwe imayamwa bwino pakhungu ikagwiritsidwa ntchito pakhungu.
3.5.3. Umboni wa Sayansi
Chotsitsa cha tiyi wobiriwira chimachepetsa kupanga kwa ROS mkati mwa maselo mu vitro ndipo chachepetsa necrosis yomwe imabwera chifukwa cha ROS. Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (polyphenol ya tiyi wobiriwira) imaletsa kutulutsidwa kwa hydrogen peroxide chifukwa cha UV, imaletsa phosphorylation ya MAPK, komanso imachepetsa kutupa kudzera mu kuyatsa kwa NF-κB. Pogwiritsa ntchito khungu la ex vivo kuchokera kwa mayi wazaka 31 wathanzi, khungu lochiritsidwa kale ndi chotsitsa cha tiyi woyera kapena wobiriwira linasonyeza kusungidwa kwa maselo a Langerhans (maselo omwe amayambitsa antigen omwe amachititsa kuti chitetezo cha mthupi chizigwira ntchito) pambuyo pa kuwala kwa UV.
Mu chitsanzo cha mbewa, kugwiritsa ntchito tiyi wobiriwira pamwamba pa khungu musanalowe mu UV kunapangitsa kuti erythema ichepe, ma leukocyte ambiri alowe m'thupi, komanso kuchepa kwa ntchito ya myeloperoxidase. Kungathenso kuletsa 5-α-reductase.
Kafukufuku wokhudza anthu ayesa ubwino wogwiritsa ntchito tiyi wobiriwira pamwamba. Kugwiritsa ntchito tiyi wobiriwira pamwamba pa khungu kunaletsa 5-α-reductase ndipo kunapangitsa kuti kukula kwa microcomedone kuchepe mu ziphuphu za microcomedonal. Mu kafukufuku waung'ono wa milungu isanu ndi umodzi wa anthu, kirimu wokhala ndi EGCG unachepetsa hypoxia-inducible factor 1 α (HIF-1α) ndi vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) expression, zomwe zikusonyeza kuthekera koletsa telangiectasias. Mu kafukufuku wopangidwa ndi anthu awiri, tiyi wobiriwira, tiyi woyera, kapena vehicle adagwiritsidwa ntchito m'matako mwa anthu 10 athanzi. Khungu linapakidwa ndi 2 × minimal erythema dose (MED) ya solar-simulated UVR. Kufufuza kwa khungu kuchokera m'malo awa kunawonetsa kuti kugwiritsa ntchito tiyi wobiriwira kapena woyera kungachepetse kwambiri kuchepa kwa maselo a Langerhans, kutengera CD1a positivity. Panalinso kuletsa pang'ono kuwonongeka kwa DNA komwe kumachitika chifukwa cha UV, monga momwe zikuwonekera ndi kuchepa kwa 8-OHdG. Mu kafukufuku wina, anthu 90 odzipereka akuluakulu adasankhidwa mwachisawawa m'magulu atatu: Osalandira chithandizo, tiyi wobiriwira, kapena tiyi woyera. Gulu lililonse linagawidwanso m'magulu osiyanasiyana a kuwala kwa UV. Choteteza ku dzuwa m'thupi chinapezeka kuti chili pafupifupi SPF 1.
3.6. Marigold
3.6.1. Mbiri, Kagwiritsidwe Ntchito, Zonena
Marigold, Calendula officinalis, ndi chomera chonunkhira bwino chomwe chingathe kuchiritsa. Chagwiritsidwa ntchito mu mankhwala achikhalidwe ku Europe ndi ku United States ngati mankhwala ochizira kutentha, mabala, mabala, ndi ziphuphu. Marigold yawonetsanso mphamvu zotsutsana ndi khansa m'mawonekedwe a khansa ya pakhungu yopanda melanoma.
3.6.2. Kapangidwe ndi Njira Yogwirira Ntchito
Zigawo zazikulu za mankhwala a marigolds ndi ma steroids, terpenoids, ma triterpene alcohols opanda madzi komanso opangidwa ndi esterified, ma phenolic acids, ma flavonoids, ndi mankhwala ena. Ngakhale kuti kafukufuku wina wasonyeza kuti kugwiritsa ntchito marigold extract pamwamba kungachepetse kuopsa ndi ululu wa radiation dermatitis mwa odwala omwe amalandira radiation chifukwa cha khansa ya m'mawere, mayeso ena azachipatala sanasonyeze kuti ndi abwino poyerekeza ndi kugwiritsa ntchito kirimu wamadzi okha.
3.6.3. Umboni wa Sayansi
Marigold ali ndi mphamvu yoteteza ku ma antioxidants komanso zotsatira zake pa maselo a khansa ya anthu mu chitsanzo cha maselo a khungu la munthu mu vitro. Mu kafukufuku wina wa mu vitro, kirimu wokhala ndi mafuta a calendula adayesedwa pogwiritsa ntchito UV spectrophotometric ndipo adapezeka kuti ali ndi mphamvu yoyamwa ya 290-320 nm; izi zidatengedwa kuti zikutanthauza kuti kugwiritsa ntchito kirimuyu kumapereka chitetezo chabwino padzuwa. Komabe, ndikofunikira kudziwa kuti iyi sinali mayeso a mu vivo omwe adawerengera mlingo wocheperako wa erythema mwa anthu odzipereka ndipo sizikudziwika bwino momwe izi zingatanthauzire m'mayesero azachipatala.
Mu chitsanzo cha murine cha in vivo, chotsitsa cha marigold chinawonetsa mphamvu yamphamvu yoteteza ku ma antioxidants pambuyo pa kuwala kwa UV. Mu kafukufuku wina, wokhudza makoswe a albino, kugwiritsa ntchito mafuta ofunikira a calendula pamwamba kunachepetsa malondialdehyde (chizindikiro cha kupsinjika kwa okosijeni) pomwe kumawonjezera kuchuluka kwa catalase, glutathione, superoxide dismutase, ndi ascorbic acid pakhungu.
Mu kafukufuku wa milungu isanu ndi itatu wokhudza anthu 21 omwe adawona khungu, kugwiritsa ntchito kirimu wa calendula pamasaya kunawonjezera kulimba kwa khungu koma sikunakhudze kwambiri kulimba kwa khungu.
Cholepheretsa kugwiritsa ntchito marigold mu zodzoladzola ndichakuti marigold ndi chifukwa chodziwika bwino cha matenda a dermatitis okhudzana ndi kukhudzana ndi khungu, monga ena ambiri a m'banja la Compositae.
3.7. Makangaza
3.7.1. Mbiri, Kagwiritsidwe Ntchito, Zonena
Pomegranate, Punica granatum, ili ndi mphamvu yamphamvu yoteteza ku ma antioxidants ndipo yagwiritsidwa ntchito m'zinthu zosiyanasiyana ngati antioxidant pamwamba. Kuchuluka kwa ma antioxidants ake kumapangitsa kuti ikhale chinthu chosangalatsa kwambiri popanga zodzoladzola.
3.7.2. Kapangidwe ndi Njira Yogwirira Ntchito
Zigawo zomwe zimagwira ntchito mwachilengedwe mu pomegranate ndi ma tannins, anthocyanins, ascorbic acid, niacin, potaziyamu, ndi piperidine alkaloids. Zigawozi zomwe zimagwira ntchito mwachilengedwe zimatha kuchotsedwa mu madzi, mbewu, peel, makungwa, muzu, kapena tsinde la pomegranate. Zina mwa zigawozi zimaganiziridwa kuti zili ndi mphamvu zotsutsana ndi chotupa, zotsutsana ndi kutupa, zotsutsana ndi tizilombo toyambitsa matenda, zotsutsana ndi antioxidant, komanso zoteteza kuwala. Kuphatikiza apo, pomegranate ndi gwero lamphamvu la ma polyphenols. Ellegic acid, yomwe ndi gawo la pomegranate extract, ingachepetse utoto wa khungu. Chifukwa chokhala chothandizira chotsutsana ndi ukalamba, maphunziro ambiri afufuza njira zowonjezera kulowa kwa mankhwalawa pakhungu kuti agwiritsidwe ntchito pakhungu.
3.7.3. Umboni wa Sayansi
Chotsitsa cha zipatso za makangaza chimateteza ma fibroblast a anthu, mu vitro, ku imfa ya maselo oyambitsidwa ndi UV; mwina chifukwa cha kuchepa kwa kuyambika kwa NF-κB, kuchepetsa mphamvu ya proapoptotic caspace-3, komanso kuwonjezeka kwa kukonzanso kwa DNA. Chimasonyeza zotsatira zotsutsana ndi chotupa pakhungu mu vitro ndipo chimaletsa kusintha kwa njira za NF-κB ndi MAPK chifukwa cha UVB. Kugwiritsa ntchito chotsitsa cha makangaza pamwamba pa khungu kumachepetsa COX-2 pakhungu la nkhumba lomwe langotulutsidwa kumene, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti pakhale zotsatira zotsutsana kwambiri ndi kutupa. Ngakhale kuti ellegic acid nthawi zambiri imaganiziridwa kuti ndi gawo logwira ntchito kwambiri mu chotsitsa cha makangaza, chitsanzo cha murine chinawonetsa ntchito yayikulu yotsutsana ndi kutupa ndi chotsitsa cha makangaza chokhazikika poyerekeza ndi ellegic acid yokha. Kugwiritsa ntchito microemulsion ya chotsitsa cha makangaza pamwamba pa khungu pogwiritsa ntchito polysorbate surfactant (Tween 80®) poyerekeza ndi anthu 11 kwa milungu 12, kunawonetsa kuchepa kwa melanin (chifukwa cha kuletsa kwa tyrosinase) komanso kuchepa kwa erythema poyerekeza ndi kuyendetsa galimoto.
3.8. Soya
3.8.1. Mbiri, Kagwiritsidwe Ntchito, Zonena
Soya ndi chakudya chokhala ndi mapuloteni ambiri chokhala ndi zinthu zomwe zingathandize kuchepetsa ukalamba. Makamaka, soya ili ndi ma isoflavones ambiri, omwe amatha kukhala ndi zotsatira zotsutsana ndi khansa komanso zotsatira zofanana ndi estrogen chifukwa cha kapangidwe kake ka diphenolic. Zotsatirazi zofanana ndi estrogen zitha kuthana ndi zotsatira zina za kusamba pa ukalamba wa khungu.
3.8.2. Kapangidwe ndi Njira Yogwirira Ntchito
Soya, wochokera ku Glycine maxi, uli ndi mapuloteni ambiri ndipo uli ndi ma isoflavone, kuphatikizapo glycitein, equol, daidzein, ndi genistein. Ma isoflavone awa, omwe amatchedwanso phytoestrogens, akhoza kukhala ndi zotsatira za estrogenic mwa anthu.
3.8.3. Umboni wa Sayansi
Soya ali ndi ma isoflavone ambiri omwe angathandize polimbana ndi ukalamba. Pakati pa zotsatira zina zamoyo, glycitein imasonyeza zotsatira za antioxidant. Ma fibroblast a khungu omwe amachiritsidwa ndi glycitein adawonetsa kuchuluka kwa maselo ndi kusamuka kwawo, kuwonjezeka kwa kupanga kwa collagen mitundu I ndi III, komanso kuchepa kwa MMP-1. Mu kafukufuku wina, soya extract idaphatikizidwa ndi haematococcus extract (algae yamadzi atsopano yomwe ilinso ndi ma antioxidants ambiri), zomwe zidachepetsa MMP-1 mRNA ndi protein expression. Daidzein, isoflavone ya soya, yawonetsa zotsatira zotsutsana ndi makwinya, kuwunikira khungu, komanso kunyowetsa khungu. Diadzein ikhoza kugwira ntchito poyambitsa estrogen-receptor-β pakhungu, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti ma antioxidants achilengedwe aziwoneka bwino komanso kuchepa kwa ma transcription factors omwe amachititsa kuti keratinocyte ichuluke komanso kusamuka. Soy-derived isoflavonoid equol idakulitsa collagen ndi elastin ndikuchepetsa MMPs mu cell culture.
Kafukufuku wina wa mu vivo wasonyeza kuchepa kwa kufa kwa maselo chifukwa cha UVB komanso kuchepa kwa makulidwe a epidermal m'maselo atagwiritsa ntchito zotulutsa za isoflavone pamwamba. Mu kafukufuku woyeserera wa amayi 30 omwe adasiya kusamba, kumwa mankhwala a isoflavone pakamwa kwa miyezi isanu ndi umodzi kunapangitsa kuti makulidwe a epidermal achuluke komanso kuwonjezeka kwa collagen ya khungu monga momwe zimayesedwera ndi biopsies ya khungu m'malo otetezedwa ndi dzuwa. Mu kafukufuku wina, ma isoflavones oyeretsedwa a soya adaletsa kufa kwa keratinocyte chifukwa cha UV komanso kuchepa kwa TEWL, makulidwe a epidermal, ndi erythema pakhungu la mbewa lomwe lili ndi UV.
RCT ya amayi 30 azaka zapakati pa 45-55 inayerekeza kugwiritsa ntchito estrogen ndi genistein (soy isoflavone) pakhungu kwa milungu 24. Ngakhale kuti gulu lomwe linagwiritsa ntchito estrogen pakhungu linali ndi zotsatira zabwino kwambiri, magulu onse awiriwa adawonetsa kuwonjezeka kwa collagen yamtundu wa I ndi III kutengera mawonekedwe a khungu la preauricular. Soy oligopeptides imatha kuchepetsa kuchuluka kwa erythema mu khungu lowonetsedwa ndi UVB (forearm) ndikuchepetsa maselo opsa ndi dzuwa ndi cyclobutene pyrimidine dimers mu maselo a khungu omwe amawotchedwa ndi UVB ex vivo. Kuyesa kwachipatala kwa milungu 12 koyendetsedwa ndi galimoto yoyang'aniridwa ndi magalimoto awiri komwe kudakhudza azimayi 65 omwe ali ndi kuwonongeka pang'ono kwa nkhope kunawonetsa kusintha kwa utoto wa madontho, mawanga, kufiira, mizere yaying'ono, kapangidwe ka khungu, ndi kamvekedwe ka khungu poyerekeza ndi galimotoyo. Zonsezi pamodzi, zinthuzi zitha kupereka zotsatira zotsutsana ndi ukalamba, koma mayeso azachipatala olimba kwambiri amafunikira kuti awonetse bwino ubwino wake.
4. Kukambirana
Zinthu zopangidwa ndi zomera, kuphatikizapo zomwe zafotokozedwa pano, zimatha kukhala ndi zotsatirapo zotsutsana ndi ukalamba. Njira zotsutsana ndi ukalamba zimaphatikizapo kuthekera kochotsa ma antioxidants omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito pakhungu, kuteteza kwambiri dzuwa, kunyowetsa khungu, komanso zotsatirapo zingapo zomwe zimapangitsa kuti collagen ipangidwe kapena kuchepa kwa collagen. Zina mwa zotsatirazi ndizochepa poyerekeza ndi mankhwala, koma izi sizichepetsa phindu lake ngati zigwiritsidwa ntchito limodzi ndi njira zina monga kupewa dzuwa, kugwiritsa ntchito mafuta oteteza ku dzuwa, kunyowetsa tsiku ndi tsiku komanso chithandizo choyenera cha akatswiri azachipatala pamavuto a khungu omwe alipo.
Kuphatikiza apo, zomera zimapereka zosakaniza zina zomwe zimagwira ntchito m'thupi kwa odwala omwe amakonda kugwiritsa ntchito zosakaniza "zachilengedwe" zokha pakhungu lawo. Ngakhale zosakaniza izi zimapezeka m'chilengedwe, ndikofunikira kutsimikizira odwala kuti izi sizikutanthauza kuti zosakaniza izi zilibe zotsatirapo zoyipa, kwenikweni, zinthu zambiri za zomera zimadziwika kuti ndi zomwe zimayambitsa matenda a dermatitis.
Popeza zinthu zodzikongoletsera sizifuna umboni wofanana kuti zitsimikizire kuti zikugwira ntchito, nthawi zambiri zimakhala zovuta kudziwa ngati zomwe akunena kuti zotsatira zake ndi zoona. Komabe, zomera zingapo zomwe zatchulidwa pano zimakhala ndi zotsatirapo zotsutsana ndi ukalamba, koma mayeso azachipatala amphamvu kwambiri amafunika. Ngakhale kuti n'zovuta kuneneratu momwe zinthuzi zidzapindulire odwala ndi ogula mtsogolo, ndizotheka kuti kwa zomera zambirizi, mankhwala omwe amawaphatikiza ngati zosakaniza adzapitiliza kuperekedwa ngati zinthu zosamalira khungu ndipo ngati asunga chitetezo chokwanira, kuvomerezeka kwakukulu kwa ogula, komanso mtengo wabwino kwambiri, adzakhalabe gawo la njira zosamalira khungu nthawi zonse, zomwe sizipereka phindu lalikulu pa thanzi la khungu. Komabe, kwa zomera zochepazi, zotsatira zazikulu kwa anthu onse zitha kupezeka polimbitsa umboni wa ntchito yawo yachilengedwe, kudzera mu mayeso odziwika bwino a biomarker kenako ndikuyika zolinga zabwino kwambiri pakuyesa mayeso azachipatala.
Nthawi yotumizira: Meyi-11-2023
