M'zaka zapakhungu, pali kuchepa kwa ntchito ya physiologic. Zosinthazi zimayamba chifukwa cha zinthu zonse zamkati (chronologic) ndi zakunja (makamaka UV-induced factor). Botanicals amapereka zabwino zomwe zingathe kulimbana ndi zizindikiro za ukalamba. Apa, tikuwunikanso ma botanicals osankhidwa komanso umboni wasayansi womwe umayambitsa zonena zawo zotsutsana ndi ukalamba. Botanicals amatha kupereka anti-yotupa, antioxidant, moisturizing, UV-chitetezo, ndi zina. Unyinji wa botanicals walembedwa ngati zosakaniza mu zodzoladzola zodziwika bwino ndi zodzoladzola, koma ndi ochepa okha omwe akukambidwa pano. Izi zinasankhidwa potengera kupezeka kwa chidziwitso cha sayansi, chidwi chaolemba, komanso "kutchuka" kwa zinthu zamakono zodzikongoletsera ndi zodzikongoletsera. Zomera zomwe zawunikiridwa apa zikuphatikiza mafuta a argan, mafuta a kokonati, crocin, feverfew, tiyi wobiriwira, marigold, makangaza, ndi soya.
Mawu ofunika: botanical; anti-kukalamba; mafuta a argan; kokonati mafuta; crocin; feverfew; tiyi wobiriwira; marigold; makangaza; soya
3.1. Mafuta a Argan
3.1.1. Mbiri, Kugwiritsa Ntchito, ndi Zofuna
Mafuta a Argan amapezeka ku Morocco ndipo amapangidwa kuchokera ku mbewu za Argania sponosa L. Ali ndi ntchito zambiri zachikhalidwe monga kuphika, kuchiza matenda a pakhungu, kusamalira khungu ndi tsitsi.
3.1.2. Kapangidwe ndi Kachitidwe Kachitidwe
Mafuta a Argan amapangidwa ndi 80% monounsaturated mafuta ndi 20% saturated mafuta acids ndipo ali polyphenols, tocopherols, sterols, squalene, ndi triterpene mowa.
3.1.3. Umboni Wasayansi
Mafuta a Argan akhala akugwiritsidwa ntchito ku Morocco kuti achepetse mtundu wa nkhope, koma maziko asayansi pazonena izi sanamvetsetsedwe kale. Mu kafukufuku wa mbewa, mafuta a argan analetsa tyrosinase ndi dopachrome tautomerase kufotokoza mu B16 murine melanoma maselo, zomwe zimapangitsa kuchepa kwa mlingo wa melanin. Izi zikuwonetsa kuti mafuta a argan atha kukhala choletsa champhamvu cha melanin biosynthesis, koma kuyesa kosasinthika (RTC) m'mitu ya anthu ndikofunikira kuti zitsimikizire lingaliro ili.
RTC yaying'ono ya amayi 60 omwe adasiya kusamba adanenanso kuti kugwiritsa ntchito mafuta a argan tsiku ndi tsiku kumachepetsa kutaya kwa madzi a transepidermal (TEWL), kumapangitsa kuti khungu likhale lolimba, kutengera kuwonjezeka kwa R2 (kuchuluka kwa khungu), R5. (kutha kwa khungu), ndi R7 (kusungunuka kwachilengedwe) ndi kuchepa kwa nthawi yothamanga (RRT) (muyeso wotsutsana ndi kusungunuka kwa khungu). Maguluwa adasinthidwa mwachisawawa kuti adye mafuta a azitona kapena mafuta a argan. Magulu onse awiri adapaka mafuta a argan ku dzanja lamanzere lokha. Miyezo idatengedwa kuchokera kumanja ndi kumanzere kwa volar. Kusintha kwa elasticity kunawoneka m'magulu onse awiri pa dzanja pomwe mafuta a argan ankagwiritsidwa ntchito pamutu, koma pamkono pomwe mafuta a argan sanagwiritsidwe ntchito kokha gulu lomwe limagwiritsa ntchito mafuta a argan linali ndi kuwonjezeka kwakukulu kwa elasticity [31]. Izi zimatheka chifukwa cha kuchuluka kwa antioxidant mumafuta a argan poyerekeza ndi mafuta a azitona. Zimaganiziridwa kuti izi zitha kukhala chifukwa cha vitamini E ndi ferulic acid, zomwe zimadziwika kuti ndi antioxidant.
3.2. Mafuta a kokonati
3.2.1. Mbiri, Kugwiritsa Ntchito, ndi Zofuna
Mafuta a kokonati amachokera ku zipatso zouma za Cocos nucifera ndipo ali ndi ntchito zambiri, mbiri yakale komanso zamakono. Amagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati fungo lonunkhira, khungu, ndi zowongolera tsitsi, komanso muzodzola zambiri. Ngakhale mafuta a kokonati ali ndi zowonjezera zambiri, kuphatikizapo kokonati asidi, hydrogenated kokonati asidi, ndi mafuta a kokonati a hydrogenated, tidzakambirana zafukufuku zomwe zimagwirizanitsidwa makamaka ndi mafuta a kokonati (VCO), omwe amakonzedwa popanda kutentha.
Mafuta a kokonati akhala akugwiritsidwa ntchito moisturization ya khungu la khanda ndipo angakhale opindulitsa pochiza atopic dermatitis chifukwa cha mphamvu zake zowonongeka komanso zotsatira zake pa Staphylococcus aureus ndi mabakiteriya ena a khungu mwa odwala atopic. Mafuta a kokonati awonetsedwa kuti amachepetsa S. aureus colonization pakhungu la akuluakulu omwe ali ndi atopic dermatitis mu RTC yakhungu iwiri.
3.2.2. Kapangidwe ndi Kachitidwe Kachitidwe
Mafuta a kokonati amapangidwa ndi 90-95% saturated triglycerides (lauric acid, myristic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, ndi palmitic acid). Izi ndizosiyana ndi mafuta ambiri a masamba/zipatso, omwe nthawi zambiri amakhala ndi mafuta osakwanira. Ma triglycerides omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito pamutu amagwira ntchito kuti anyowetse khungu ngati chokometsera pomangirira m'mphepete mwa ma corneocyte ndikudzaza mipata pakati pawo.
3.2.3. Umboni Wasayansi
Kokonati mafuta akhoza moisturize youma kukalamba khungu. Makumi makumi asanu ndi limodzi mphambu ziwiri peresenti ya mafuta acids mu VCO ndi aatali ofanana ndi 92% ali odzaza, omwe amalola kulongedza kolimba komwe kumabweretsa zotsatira zazikulu za occlusive kuposa mafuta a azitona. Ma triglycerides mumafuta a kokonati amaphwanyidwa ndi lipases muzomera zapakhungu kukhala glycerin ndi mafuta acid. Glycerin ndi mphamvu ya humectant, yomwe imakokera madzi ku cornea wosanjikiza wa epidermis kuchokera kunja kwa chilengedwe ndi zozama za khungu. Mafuta acids mu VCO ali ndi mafuta ochepa a linoleic acid, omwe ndi ofunika chifukwa linoleic acid amatha kukwiyitsa khungu. Mafuta a kokonati ndi apamwamba kuposa mafuta amchere pakuchepetsa TEWL kwa odwala omwe ali ndi atopic dermatitis ndipo ndi othandiza komanso otetezeka ngati mafuta amchere pochiza xerosis.
Lauric acid, yomwe imatsogolera ku monolaurin ndi chigawo chofunikira cha VCO, ikhoza kukhala ndi anti-inflammatory properties, imatha kusintha kuchuluka kwa maselo a chitetezo cha mthupi komanso kukhala ndi udindo wa zotsatira za antimicrobial za VCO. VCO imakhala ndi ferulic acid yambiri ndi p-coumaric acid (onse a phenolic acid), ndipo kuchuluka kwa ma phenolic acid awa kumalumikizidwa ndi kuchuluka kwa antioxidant mphamvu. Phenolic acid ndi othandiza polimbana ndi kuwonongeka kwa UV. Komabe, ngakhale akuti mafuta a kokonati amatha kugwira ntchito ngati zoteteza ku dzuwa, kafukufuku wa in vitro akuwonetsa kuti samatha kutsekereza UV.
Kuphatikiza pa kunyowa kwake komanso zotsatira za antioxidant, zitsanzo za nyama zimasonyeza kuti VCO ikhoza kuchepetsa nthawi yochiritsa mabala. Panali kuchuluka kwa pepsin-soluble collagen (higher collagen cross-linking) mu zilonda za VCO poyerekeza ndi zowongolera. Histopathology inawonetsa kuchuluka kwa fibroblast ndi neovascularization m'mabala awa. Maphunziro ochulukirapo ndi ofunikira kuti muwone ngati kugwiritsa ntchito pamitu ya VCO kungachulukitse milingo ya kolajeni pakhungu la anthu okalamba.
3.3. Crocin
3.3.1. Mbiri, Kugwiritsa Ntchito, Zofuna
Crocin ndi biologically yogwira chigawo cha safironi, yochokera ku manyazi owuma a Crocus sativus L. Saffron amalimidwa m'mayiko ambiri kuphatikizapo Iran, India, ndi Greece, ndipo amagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati mankhwala achikhalidwe kuti athetse matenda osiyanasiyana kuphatikizapo kuvutika maganizo, kutupa. , matenda a chiwindi, ndi ena ambiri.
3.3.2. Kapangidwe ndi Kachitidwe Kachitidwe
Crocin ndi amene amachititsa mtundu wa safironi. Crocin imapezekanso mu zipatso za Gardenia jasminoides Ellis. Amapangidwa ngati carotenoid glycoside.
3.3.3. Umboni Wasayansi
Crocin ili ndi antioxidant zotsatira, imateteza squalene ku UV-induced peroxidation, ndipo imalepheretsa kutulutsa kwa oyimira pakati. Antioxidant effect yasonyezedwa mu in vitro assays yomwe imasonyeza ntchito yapamwamba ya antioxidant poyerekeza ndi Vitamini C. Kuwonjezera apo, crocin imalepheretsa UVA-induced cell membrane peroxidation ndipo imalepheretsa kufotokoza kwa oyimira pakati ambiri omwe ali ndi kutupa kuphatikizapo IL-8, PGE-2, IL. -6, TNF-α, IL-1α, ndi LTB4. Zimachepetsanso mawu amitundu yambiri yodalira NF-κB. Pakafukufuku wogwiritsa ntchito ma fibroblasts opangidwa ndi anthu, crocin idachepetsa ROS yopangidwa ndi UV, kulimbikitsa kuwonetsa kwa mapuloteni a extracellular matrix Col-1, ndikuchepetsa kuchuluka kwa maselo okhala ndi senescent phenotypes pambuyo pa radiation ya UV. Imachepetsa kupanga kwa ROS ndikuletsa apoptosis. Crocin adawonetsedwa kuti amapondereza njira zowonetsera ERK/MAPK/NF-κB/STAT m'maselo a HaCaT mu vitro. Ngakhale crocin ali ndi kuthekera ngati anti-kukalamba cosmeceutical, pawiri ndi labile. Kugwiritsiridwa ntchito kwa nanostructured lipid dispersions pakuwongolera pamutu kwafufuzidwa ndi zotsatira zabwino. Kuti mudziwe zotsatira za crocin mu vivo, zitsanzo zowonjezera za zinyama ndi mayesero achipatala osadziwika amafunikira.
3.4. Feverfew
3.4.1. Mbiri, Kugwiritsa Ntchito, Zofuna
Feverfew, Tanacetum parthenium, ndi zitsamba zosatha zomwe zakhala zikugwiritsidwa ntchito pazinthu zingapo zamankhwala owerengeka.
3.4.2. Kapangidwe ndi Kachitidwe Kachitidwe
Feverfew ili ndi parthenolide, sesquiterpene lactone, yomwe ingakhale ndi zotsatira zotsutsana ndi zotupa, pogwiritsa ntchito kuletsa kwa NF-κB. Kuletsa kwa NF-κB uku kumawoneka ngati kopanda chitetezo cha parthenolide antioxidant zotsatira. Parthenolide yawonetsanso zotsatira za anticancer motsutsana ndi khansa yapakhungu yopangidwa ndi UVB komanso ma cell a melanoma mu vitro. Tsoka ilo, parthenolide imatha kuyambitsanso kuyabwa, matuza amkamwa, komanso matupi awo sagwirizana ndi dermatitis. Chifukwa cha nkhawa izi, nthawi zambiri amachotsedwa feverfew asanawonjezedwe kuzinthu zodzikongoletsera.
3.4.3. Umboni Wasayansi
Chifukwa cha zovuta zomwe zingakhalepo ndi kugwiritsa ntchito pamutu kwa parthenolide, zodzikongoletsera zina zamakono zomwe zimakhala ndi feverfew zimagwiritsa ntchito parthenolide-depleted feverfew (PD-feverfew), yomwe imati ilibe mphamvu yolimbikitsa. PD-feverfew imatha kupititsa patsogolo ntchito yokonza DNA pakhungu, zomwe zingachepetse kuwonongeka kwa DNA kopangidwa ndi UV. Mu kafukufuku wa in vitro, PD-feverfew idachepetsa mapangidwe a UV-induced hydrogen peroxide ndikuchepetsa kutulutsa kwa cytokine oyambitsa kutupa. Idawonetsa zotsatira zamphamvu za antioxidant kuposa wofananira, Vitamini C, ndikuchepetsa erythema yopangidwa ndi UV mu RTC ya 12.
3.5. Green Tea
3.5.1. Mbiri, Kugwiritsa Ntchito, Zofuna
Tiyi wobiriwira wakhala akugwiritsidwa ntchito chifukwa cha thanzi lake ku China kwazaka zambiri. Chifukwa cha mphamvu zake zoteteza antioxidant, pali chidwi pakupanga mawonekedwe okhazikika, opezeka ndi bioavailable topical.
3.5.2. Kapangidwe ndi Kachitidwe Kachitidwe
Tiyi wobiriwira, wochokera ku Camellia sinensis, ali ndi mankhwala ambiri omwe amatha kuwononga ukalamba, kuphatikizapo caffeine, mavitamini, ndi polyphenols. Ma polyphenols akuluakulu mu tiyi wobiriwira ndi makatekini, makamaka gallocatechin, epigallocatechin (ECG), ndi epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). Epigallocatechin-3-gallate ili ndi antioxidant, photoprotective, immunomodulatory, anti-angiogenic, ndi anti-inflammatory properties. Tiyi wobiriwira alinso ndi flavonol glycoside kaempferol yambiri, yomwe imayamwa bwino pakhungu pambuyo popaka pakhungu.
3.5.3. Umboni Wasayansi
Kutulutsa tiyi wobiriwira kumachepetsa kupanga kwa ROS mu vitro ndipo kwachepetsa necrosis yopangidwa ndi ROS. Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (polyphenol wobiriwira wa tiyi) amalepheretsa kutulutsidwa kwa UV kwa hydrogen peroxide, kupondereza phosphorylation ya MAPK, ndi kuchepetsa kutupa pogwiritsa ntchito NF-κB. Pogwiritsa ntchito khungu la ex vivo la mayi wazaka 31 wathanzi, khungu lopangidwa ndi tiyi woyera kapena wobiriwira limawonetsa kusungidwa kwa ma cell a Langerhans (ma cell a antigen omwe amachititsa kuti chitetezo chitetezeke pakhungu) pambuyo poyatsidwa ndi kuwala kwa UV.
Muchitsanzo cha mbewa, kugwiritsa ntchito tiyi wobiriwira pamaso pa UV kumayambitsa kuchepa kwa erythema, kuchepa kwa khungu la leukocyte, komanso kuchepa kwa myeloperoxidase. Ikhozanso kulepheretsa 5-α-reductase.
Maphunziro angapo okhudza anthu awonetsa ubwino wogwiritsa ntchito tiyi wobiriwira. Kugwiritsa ntchito pamutu kwa emulsion ya tiyi wobiriwira kunaletsa 5-α-reductase ndikupangitsa kuchepa kwa kukula kwa microcomedone mu microcomedonal acne. Mu phunziro laling'ono la masabata asanu ndi limodzi la anthu, zonona zomwe zili ndi EGCG zinachepetsa hypoxia-inducible factor 1 α (HIF-1α) ndi vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), kusonyeza kuthekera kolepheretsa telangiectasias. Pakufufuza kopanda khungu kawiri, tiyi wobiriwira, tiyi woyera, kapena galimoto idangogwiritsidwa ntchito pamatako a anthu 10 odzipereka athanzi. Khungulo linayatsidwa ndi 2 × yochepa erythema mlingo (MED) ya UVR yofanana ndi dzuwa. Ma biopsies a pakhungu ochokera pamasambawa adawonetsa kuti kugwiritsa ntchito tiyi wobiriwira kapena woyera kumatha kuchepetsa kuchepa kwa maselo a Langerhans, kutengera CD1a positivity. Panalinso kupewa pang'ono kuwonongeka kwa UV-induced oxidative DNA kuwonongeka, monga umboni wa kuchepa kwa 8-OHdG. Mu kafukufuku wosiyana, odzipereka akuluakulu a 90 adasinthidwa mwachisawawa m'magulu atatu: Palibe mankhwala, tiyi wobiriwira, kapena tiyi woyera. Gulu lililonse linagawidwanso m'magulu osiyanasiyana a cheza cha UV. In vivo sun protection factor inapezeka kuti ndi pafupifupi SPF 1.
3.6. Marigold
3.6.1. Mbiri, Kugwiritsa Ntchito, Zofuna
Marigold, Calendula officinalis, ndi chomera chamaluwa chonunkhira chomwe chili ndi mwayi wochiritsa. Zakhala zikugwiritsidwa ntchito mumankhwala amtundu ku Europe ndi United States ngati mankhwala apakhungu pakupsa, mikwingwirima, mabala, ndi zidzolo. Marigold wasonyezanso zotsatira za anticancer mu zitsanzo za murine za khansa yapakhungu yopanda melanoma.
3.6.2. Kapangidwe ndi Kachitidwe Kachitidwe
Zigawo zazikulu zamakina a marigolds ndi ma steroid, terpenoids, ma alcohols aulere komanso esterified triterpene, phenolic acid, flavonoids, ndi mankhwala ena. Ngakhale kafukufuku wina adawonetsa kuti kugwiritsa ntchito pamutu kwa tinthu ta marigold kumatha kuchepetsa kuopsa ndi kupweteka kwa radiation dermatitis kwa odwala omwe amalandila ma radiation a khansa ya m'mawere, mayeso ena azachipatala sanawonetse kupambanitsa poyerekeza ndi kugwiritsa ntchito kirimu wowawasa wokha.
3.6.3. Umboni Wasayansi
Marigold ali ndi mphamvu yowonetsera antioxidant komanso zotsatira za cytotoxic pama cell a khansa ya munthu mu in vitro cell cell model. Mu phunziro lapadera mu m'galasi, kirimu munali calendula mafuta adayesedwa kudzera UV spectrophotometric ndipo anapeza kuti absorbance sipekitiramu osiyanasiyana 290-320 nm; izi zidatengedwa kutanthauza kuti kugwiritsa ntchito kirimu ichi kumapereka chitetezo chabwino cha dzuwa. Ndikofunika kuzindikira, komabe, kuti uku sikunali kuyesa mu vivo komwe kunawerengera mlingo wocheperako wa erythema mwa anthu odzipereka ndipo sizikudziwikabe momwe izi zingatanthauzire m'mayesero achipatala.
Muchitsanzo cha mu vivo murine, chotsitsa cha marigold chinawonetsa mphamvu ya antioxidant pambuyo pakuwonekera kwa UV. Mu kafukufuku wosiyana, wokhudza makoswe a albino, kugwiritsidwa ntchito kwapamutu kwa calendula mafuta ofunikira kunachepetsa malondialdehyde (chizindikiro cha kupsinjika kwa okosijeni) pamene akuwonjezera milingo ya catalase, glutathione, superoxide dismutase, ndi ascorbic acid pakhungu.
Mu masabata asanu ndi atatu osakwatiwa ndi maphunziro a anthu 21, kugwiritsa ntchito zonona za calendula kumasaya kumawonjezera kulimba kwa khungu koma kunalibe zotsatira zochititsa chidwi pakhungu.
Cholepheretsa kugwiritsa ntchito marigold mu zodzoladzola ndikuti marigold ndizomwe zimayambitsa matenda a dermatitis, monga ena ambiri a m'banja la Compositae.
3.7. Khangaza
3.7.1. Mbiri, Kugwiritsa Ntchito, Zofuna
Pomegranate, Punica granatum, ali ndi mphamvu zowononga antioxidant ndipo amagwiritsidwa ntchito muzinthu zambiri ngati mankhwala oletsa antioxidant. Kuchuluka kwake kwa antioxidant kumapangitsa kukhala chinthu chosangalatsa chomwe chingathe kupanga zodzikongoletsera.
3.7.2. Kapangidwe ndi Kachitidwe Kachitidwe
The biologically yogwira zigawo zikuluzikulu za makangaza ndi tannins, anthocyanins, ascorbic acid, niacin, potaziyamu, ndi piperidine alkaloids. Izi biologically yogwira zigawo zikuluzikulu akhoza yotengedwa madzi, njere, peel, khungwa, muzu, kapena tsinde la makangaza. Zina mwa zigawozi zimaganiziridwa kuti zimakhala ndi antitumor, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, antioxidant, ndi zotsatira za photoprotective. Kuphatikiza apo, makangaza ndi gwero lamphamvu la polyphenols. Ellegic acid, yomwe ili gawo la makangaza, imatha kuchepetsa khungu. Chifukwa chokhala ndi chiyembekezo choletsa kukalamba, kafukufuku wambiri adafufuza njira zowonjezerera kulowa kwapakhungu kwapawiriyi kuti igwiritsidwe ntchito pamutu.
3.7.3. Umboni Wasayansi
Kutulutsa kwa zipatso za makangaza kumateteza ma fibroblasts amunthu, mu vitro, ku kufa kwa cell chifukwa cha UV; mwina chifukwa cha kuchepa kwa NF-κB, kutsika kwa proapoptotic caspace-3, ndi kuwonjezeka kwa DNA kukonza. Imawonetsa anti-skin-tumor kulimbikitsa zotsatira mu vitro ndipo imalepheretsa UVB-induced modulation ya NF-κB ndi MAPK njira. Kugwiritsa ntchito pamitu pomegranate rind kumachepetsa COX-2 pakhungu la nkhumba lomwe langotulutsidwa kumene, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti pakhale zotsutsana ndi zotupa. Ngakhale kuti ellegic acid nthawi zambiri imaganiziridwa kuti ndi gawo logwira ntchito kwambiri la makangaza a makangaza, chitsanzo cha murine chinasonyeza ntchito yotsutsa-kutupa yokhala ndi makangaza ovomerezeka a rind poyerekezera ndi ellegic acid yokha. Kugwiritsa ntchito pamutu kwa microemulsion ya chotsitsa cha makangaza pogwiritsa ntchito polysorbate surfactant (Tween 80®) pakuyerekeza kwa nkhope kwa milungu 12 ndi anthu 11, kunawonetsa kuchepa kwa melanin (chifukwa cha tyrosinase inhibition) komanso kuchepa kwa erythema poyerekeza ndi kuwongolera galimoto.
3.8. Soya
3.8.1. Mbiri, Kugwiritsa Ntchito, Zofuna
Nyemba za soya ndi chakudya chokhala ndi mapuloteni ambiri omwe ali ndi zigawo za bioactive zomwe zingakhale ndi zotsatira zotsutsa kukalamba. Makamaka, soya imakhala ndi isoflavones yambiri, yomwe imatha kukhala ndi zotsatira za anticarcinogenic ndi zotsatira za estrogen chifukwa cha diphenolic. Zotsatira zonga estrogen izi zitha kuthana ndi zina mwazotsatira za kusintha kwa thupi paukalamba wa khungu.
3.8.2. Kapangidwe ndi Kachitidwe Kachitidwe
Soya, wochokera ku Glycine maxi, ali ndi mapuloteni ambiri ndipo ali ndi isoflavones, kuphatikizapo glycitein, equol, daidzein, ndi genistein. Ma isoflavones awa, omwe amatchedwanso phytoestrogens, amatha kukhala ndi zotsatira za estrogenic mwa anthu.
3.8.3. Umboni Wasayansi
Nyemba za soya zili ndi ma isoflavones angapo omwe amatha kuletsa kukalamba. Mwa zina za biologic zotsatira, glycitein imasonyeza zotsatira za antioxidant. Dermal fibroblasts yothandizidwa ndi glycitein inawonetsa kuwonjezeka kwa maselo ndi kusamuka, kuwonjezeka kwa kaphatikizidwe ka collagen mitundu I ndi III, ndi kuchepa kwa MMP-1. Mu kafukufuku wina, chotsitsa cha soya chinaphatikizidwa ndi chotsitsa cha haematococcus (algae yamadzi amchere yomwe imakhalanso ndi antioxidants), yomwe inachepetsa MMP-1 mRNA ndi kufotokoza kwa mapuloteni. Daidzein, soya isoflavone, yawonetsa zotsutsana ndi makwinya, zowunikira pakhungu, komanso zopatsa mphamvu pakhungu. Diadzein ikhoza kugwira ntchito poyambitsa estrogen-receptor-β pakhungu, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti pakhale kufotokozera kwabwino kwa antioxidants komanso kuchepa kwa zinthu zolembera zomwe zimapangitsa kuti keratinocyte ichuluke komanso kusamuka. Soya-yochokera ku isoflavonoid equol inachulukitsa collagen ndi elastin ndikuchepetsa ma MMP mu chikhalidwe cha maselo.
Kafukufuku wowonjezera mu vivo murine akuwonetsa kuchepa kwa cell kufa kwa UVB komanso kuchepa kwa epidermal makulidwe m'maselo pambuyo pogwiritsa ntchito zotulutsa za isoflavone. Pakafukufuku woyesa azimayi 30 omwe adasiya kusamba, kugwiritsa ntchito pakamwa kwa isoflavone kwa miyezi isanu ndi umodzi kudapangitsa kuti epidermal makulidwe komanso kuchuluka kwa ma collagen akhungu monga momwe amayesedwera ndi ma biopsies akhungu m'malo otetezedwa ndi dzuwa. Mu kafukufuku wina, oyeretsedwa soya isoflavones analetsa UV-induced keratinocyte imfa ndi kuchepa TEWL, epidermal makulidwe, ndi erythema pa UV-poyera mbewa khungu.
RCT yomwe ikuyembekezeka kuwirikiza kawiri ya azimayi a 30 azaka za 45-55 idayerekeza kugwiritsa ntchito pamutu kwa estrogen ndi genistein (soy isoflavone) pakhungu kwa milungu 24. Ngakhale gulu lomwe limagwiritsa ntchito estrogen pakhungu linali ndi zotulukapo zabwino kwambiri, magulu onsewa adawonetsa kuchuluka kwa kolajeni yamtundu wa I ndi III yotengera khungu lakhungu la preauricular. Soy oligopeptides amatha kuchepetsa erythema index pakhungu lowonekera la UVB (pamphumi) ndikuchepetsa ma cell akuwotcha ndi ma cyclobutene pyrimidine dimers mu UVB-irradiated foreskin cell ex vivo. Mayesero achipatala a milungu 12 omwe amayendetsedwa mwachisawawa pamagalimoto okhudzana ndi azimayi 65 omwe anali ndi zithunzi zowoneka bwino pankhope adawonetsa kusintha kwa ma pigmentation, makutu, kusawoneka bwino, mizere yabwino, mawonekedwe a khungu, komanso mawonekedwe akhungu poyerekeza ndi galimotoyo. Pamodzi, zinthuzi zingapereke zotsatira zotsutsana ndi ukalamba, koma mayesero achipatala amphamvu kwambiri amafunikira kuti awonetsere bwino phindu lake.
4. Kukambitsirana
Zogulitsa za botanical, kuphatikiza zomwe zakambidwa pano, zimakhala ndi zotsatira zoletsa kukalamba. Njira zama botanicals odana ndi ukalamba zimaphatikizapo kuthekera kwaulele kwa ma antioxidants omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito pamutu, kuchuluka kwa chitetezo cha dzuwa, kuchuluka kwa chinyezi cha khungu, ndi zotsatira zingapo zomwe zimapangitsa kuti collagen ipangike kapena kuchepa kwa collagen. Zina mwazotsatirazi ndizochepa poyerekeza ndi mankhwala, koma izi sizimachotsera phindu lawo pamene likugwiritsidwa ntchito pamodzi ndi njira zina monga kupeŵa dzuwa, kugwiritsa ntchito mafuta oteteza dzuwa, kunyowa tsiku ndi tsiku komanso chithandizo choyenera chachipatala cha matenda omwe alipo kale.
Kuphatikiza apo, ma botanicals amapereka zosakaniza zina za biologically kwa odwala omwe amakonda kugwiritsa ntchito "zachilengedwe" zokha pakhungu lawo. Ngakhale kuti zosakanizazi zimapezeka m'chilengedwe, ndikofunikira kutsindika kwa odwala kuti izi sizikutanthauza kuti zosakanizazi zimakhala ndi zotsatirapo zoipa, makamaka, mankhwala ambiri a botanical amadziwika kuti ndi omwe amachititsa kuti thupi likhale lopweteka.
Popeza kuti zodzoladzola sizifuna umboni wofanana kuti utsimikizire kuti ndi wothandiza, nthawi zambiri zimakhala zovuta kudziwa ngati zonena za anti-kukalamba ndizowona. Ma botanical angapo omwe atchulidwa pano, ali ndi zotsatira zotsutsa kukalamba, koma mayesero amphamvu azachipatala amafunikira. Ngakhale ndizovuta kufotokoza momwe ma botanical agents awa adzapindulira mwachindunji odwala ndi ogula m'tsogolomu, ndizotheka kuti ambiri mwa botanicals awa, mapangidwe omwe amawaphatikiza monga zosakaniza adzapitiriza kuyambitsidwa ngati mankhwala osamalira khungu ndipo ngati iwo kukhalabe ndi chitetezo chokwanira, kuvomerezeka kwa ogula kwambiri, komanso kukwanitsa kukwanitsa kukwanitsa, iwo adzakhalabe mbali ya machitidwe osamalira khungu, kupereka phindu lochepa pa thanzi la khungu. Komabe, kwa owerengeka ochepa a ma botanical agents awa, kukhudzidwa kwakukulu kwa anthu wamba kungatheke mwa kulimbikitsa umboni wa zochita zawo zamoyo, kudzera mu kuyesa kwapamwamba kwambiri kwa biomarker kenako ndikuyika mipherezero yodalirika kwambiri pakuyezetsa kwachipatala.
Nthawi yotumiza: May-11-2023
